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Laver

Writer: The Wild CookeThe Wild Cooke

This is a series of blogs unearthing the amazing secrets of some of our most unappreciated wild foods living around the intertidal zone.


Laver is one of my favourite seaweeds. It has a subtle and fragile appearance which does not in anyway hint at the depth of flavour and nourishment it holds. As long as you know how to process it you can unlock these qualities and never look back.



Laver // Porphyra spp (including several very similar species all used in the same way) is also called nori, slake or sloke.



For me, laver perfectly represents my 360 degree shift on seaweeds. My younger self was almost certainly revolted by these slippery fiends clinging to the rocks. I remember hating the tickle of the blades as I waded in the water. A quick glance at laver and I would have misunderstood it's beauty for something resembling dark cling film strewn about the rocks. The seaweed gardens were unknown places to me. And so often, (sadly) the unknown becomes frightening. A place of potential dangers, of undeclared things lurking in the deep. I don't think the textures and smells helped.... What a sensory overload.


Years later and I have begun to understand this place. I know about the organisms living here, the constant movement of the tides and the intricate dance that this habitat is always creating. Now I am a rock pool dweller, a seaweed harvester, a winkle stroker... And I love laver.



Identification


  • The colour can differ from purple, brown to green.

  • Thin, silky, fine sheets that often resembles oily liquid.

  • Found from the mid to lower end of the shore and seems to be able to grow from most substrates. I usually find it on rocks which seems like the best place to harvest it from above the sands (see processing notes).

  • It looks translucent like dark cling film or bin bags covering the rocks.

  • It grows from a tiny holdfast and is quite delicate although it does have a slight elastication about it.

  • There are several closely related species that are very similar so if you notice very slight differences this could be why. For the purpose of eating, treat them alike.




Harvesting


Before you harvest ensure you have the time to process afterwards as I wouldn't leave it lying around for too long (read below for processing tips!) Seaweeds need a gentle touch as they are easily pulled from their hold fasts. When you do this the organism cannot regrow and where's the sense in that? If we remove only part of the blade, it can continue to grow. Get scissors or a knife to do this and take only a little from each rock. I like to keep moving as I harvest to ensure that I don't take too much for one spot. I would not recommend harvesting laver that is lying in the sand (unless it is your only option) as you will be making your life harder.



Processing


Laver needs thorough washing to get rid of any sand and seaside gritty bits before use. Even the bits growing on large rocks seem to attract sand. So wash repeatedly by floating and swirling in cold water. I tend to have several bowls or containers of water on the go so I can move the seaweed from one to the other rinsing, swilling, changing the water and so on. Even one bit of grit can COMPLETELY ruin your meal. I am writing this from experience. Don't skip steps. Laver needs washing. Again and again and again. And again!



This seaweed is used to drying out when the tide subsides so it doesn't need much encouragement. Lie it out in as flat as you can (so not very flat!!) and place it somewhere warm where the air circulates. This will do some of the work for you. Just make sure that it is completely dried out by finishing it off in an oven on the lowest setting or in a dehydrator.


Uses


You won't get much flavour from this raw or even after drying. It needs some heat to bring out the magic. You can use fresh laver by adding it to dishes like soups and broths. Alternatively you can dry it and toast it (not for very long). Blitzed up it can be stored and added to practically anything to improve the flavour. This is a very versatile ingredient to get experimenting with.



Bara lawr -"bread from below"

Laverbread is a traditional Welsh recipe for utilising laver by cooking it for hours in order to break it down into a nourishing paste. Usually the liquid can be separated and kept as a enriching stock. The laver paste can be used in a variety of ways but quite often it is added to oatmeal. The mixture can then be made into patty's which are fried to create a beautiful crunchy outer texture with a soft centre. These are fabulous for breakfast, especially with eggs. They are great as a snack with a nice dip like wild garlic mayo but are also substantial enough to dress up for dinner!



I have been experimenting for my Wildbiome diet and created a lovely laver, juniper and venison stew. What a combination. I may even write up the recipe!


If you'd like to learn more, check out my other blogs or join me at one of my workshops.



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